Ugly Baby gives Williamsburg something to talk about

A restaurant comeback is more interesting than another vague promise of a hot new room. In a review published Sept. 20, The New Yorker reports that chef Sirichai Sreparplarn has brought Ugly Baby back in a larger Williamsburg space after its earlier Carroll Gardens chapter.

The review describes regional Thai cooking and a menu with varying levels of heat.

If you are making the plan, start with the people. A table of adventurous eaters is different from a birthday group with six separate dietary requirements. Tell everyone what kind of dinner you have in mind before someone arrives expecting an uncomplicated plate of noodles.

Spice tolerance is also not a personality contest. Ask the restaurant about the dishes and choose for pleasure. Nobody gets extra style points for being unable to finish dinner.

Verify the current address, service times and booking policy directly before you go. A published review can put a restaurant on your radar, but it cannot secure your evening. That last bit of checking is what separates a good suggestion from a group chat full of people waiting outside.

Our interest is in the return itself and the possibility of a dinner with a strong point of view. Put it on the list. Save your own verdict for after the meal.